The Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro is a watch that transcends the event it was designed for. Not only is it a great Olympic special edition, this is one of the absolute most attractive Seamasters currently on the market as of 2023 and will appeal to a far wider market than any previous edition has.
A Stunning Watch To Celebrate Paris 2024
The Paris 2024 Olympics Seamaster Pro 300M diver is quite simply a beautiful and extremely desirable watch first and foremost. Even individuals like myself who typically dislike two-tone will have a hard time looking past this watch in a display-case or on a wrist, such is the striking design selected for this Olympic special edition.
The approach taken to this Seamaster, similar to the most recent James Bond special editions is that of subtlety and minimal branding on the face of the watch. This is in very stark contrast to Olympic Omega models of old which at times felt like little more than a minor color change and an Olympic rings counterweight on the second hand.
This is a watch that has clearly had a great deal of thought, effort and engineering effort put into it. That's no surprise as it will serve as a lifelong companion to many athletes, spectators and officials marking the occasion by purchasing this watch rather than being a just marketing exercise.
Like other recent Omega special editions, this isn't a limited production release. Omega will no doubt try to meet demand as much as possible, focusing on the French market in particular in order to get as many watches on wrists as possible during the production run and the games themselves.
If You Know, You Know
As mentioned, this watch is all about subtle details, it is a watch that is both compelling on the surface, but which also delights the viewer on each closer inspection.
The Paris 2024 games is also interesting in that a particularly impressive level of effort was put into the design of the games, from typography to colors, branding, symbolism, look and feel. It avoids many of the touristy and kitsch pitfalls which organising committees can fall into, presenting Paris in a very elegant and dignified light.
The Paris 2024 logo itself, the most prominent feature on this watch combines three key symbols: the Olympic gold medal, the flame, and Marianne, a feminine personification of the French republic formed by the negative of that flame.
This logo makes an appearance as the luminous dot on the second hand of this watch, with an intricate application of fine metalwork and Super-Luminova allowing the flame to dance in the light while Marianne glows in the dark.
Another unique detail is that both the bezel indices and the waves on the dial of this watch are in positive relief rather than negative. This differs from regular Seamaster Pro 300M models, in that the standard watch has the waves etched and slightly recessed into the dial, while on this watch, the waves stand proud and the dial itself has been etched away. Similarly, the bezel indices stand proud in polished gold from the coarse, frosted background of the Moonshine gold bezel.
The font for the date wheel also follows the official typeface, known as "Paris2024" which features an art-deco style that is both eye-catching and quite elegant against the dial of this watch.
The case-back of the Paris 2024 Seamaster is where the main Olympic branding is, with the stylised PARiS 2024 lettering above the Olympic rings, and an inlayed 18k gold medallion featuring the logo once again above this on a steel case-back.
The way this medallion is embedded in the steel is very attractive and evokes memories of the 1950's Omega Constellation models which would similarly feature a gold observatory medallion on a steel case-back.
Through these elements, the Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro marks its special occasion in time with maturity and restraint, ensuring it remains a timeless design well into the future.
The New Quick-Release Spring-bar Bracelet System
The Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro marks the second time Omega's new quick-release spring-bar mechanism has been used on a watch, and the first time for a 3-hand time-only model.
This mechanism works by having a button under spring tension on the underside of the two bracelet end-links, which retracts the internal spring-bars from the lug holes, allowing the bracelet to be removed and re-installed without tools. This is a particularly handy feature for those keen to swap up the look of their watch with rubber or NATO straps, which is something Omega has championed on the Paris 2024 Olympic edition by releasing a range of NATO straps to match the watch.
In the past, Omega had included tools with watches to enable users to swap out bracelets themselves, however this does run the risk of damage or scratches if the owner lacks a steady hand and good eyesight. This feature should thus be very welcome among collectors, especially those who frequently change up their look.
Interestingly, recently released Omega models, including the 75th Anniversary Seamaster "Summer Blue" models which came out around the same time as the Paris 2024 Seamaster do not feature this bracelet design. Despite this, the first use of this mechanism was actually in the 2021 America's Cup Auckland 2021 edition chronograph. The America's Cup watch was a quite expensive and lower production model, which likely served as a good testbed to ensure the system works well, with the Paris 2024 Seamaster being the higher production follow-up. I'm sure in the next few years we will see this expand across the Omega product range but it makes these watches a little bit special just for now.
Case & Bracelet
The Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro 300M Diver follows the same basic case design introduced in 2018 as the fourth generation 42 mm Seamaster Pro.
I would be remiss if I did not mention the case size here and lack of a mid-sized offering. In all previous Seamaster Pro generations, Omega had a 37.5 mm unisex mid-size model, suitable for both women and men with slim wrists, powered by either quartz or an automatic movement. The fourth generation did away with this, leaving the 42 mm case used here as the new smallest model.
The design of the Paris 2024 is simply fantastic, it is beautiful, elegant, and also gender neutral, which is why it feels like a missed opportunity that this watch does not come in a more accessible size to those with smaller wrists.
For those that do suit a 42 mm watch, the Seamaster Pro 300M Diver is in my view the best watch overall in the Omega line-up, balancing excellent comfort, durability and style in a well-priced package. The Paris 2024 simply takes this design to the next level with its 18K solid "Moonshine" yellow gold bezel and white dial.
While the two most recent Bond models, the No Time To Die, and the Bond 60th Anniversary both utilise a vintage-style heavily domed crystal, the Paris 2024 uses the standard Seamaster Pro crystal, allowing for better legibility and a flush fit with the bezel. The lower height crystal, combined with the solid steel case-back result in a thickness of 13.7 mm, only slightly greater than the 13.6 mm of the standard models and a comfortable height on the wrist. That case-back is indeed quite a special one also, with standard keying around the edge and Omega's NAIAD lock mechanism ensuring that the case-back text and logo remains perfectly aligned at all times.
The gold bezel and case-back medallion add very slightly to the weight of the watch, bringing it to 204 grams, up from the 194 grams of the standard Seamaster Pro, and not light by any means but well balanced with the bracelet accounting for roughly half that mass.
The 18K Gold bezel insert on this watch is remarkably beautiful, but also a possible risk of damage in the future as the raised lettering and frosted background is unlikely to hide dents and scratches very well. The ceramic bezel of the standard version is really one of the best features of the Seamaster Pro 300M, leading to daily worn watches looking brand new even after a decade or more of use. Replacing that with a soft material like gold will not only require some more gentle use, but this part will likely be very costly to replace at service.
As with all 42 mm Seamaster Pro models, the Paris 2024 has 20 mm lugs and can take a variety of different strap and bracelet options offered by Omega including steel bracelets, NATO straps and rubber.
The movement powering the Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro 300M Diver is the Omega Calibre 8800 Co-Axial movement.
The Calibre 8800 is part of the second generation of fully in-house Omega Co-Axial movements. This movement represents the thinnest automatic version to date of the family which began in 2007 with the Calibre 8500.
The Calibre 8800 oscillates at 25,200 vph and features hacking, a traditional quick-set date mechanism, >15,000 gauss magnetic resistance, METAS Master Chronometer certification, and a 55-hour power reserve from a bi-directional winding system. All of this comes from a package only 4.60 mm thick, even with a 3-level Co-Axial escapement.
While the Calibre 8500 & 8900 are powered by dual mainspring barrels, the smaller Calibre 8800 is a high-capacity single barrel design, with a reduced diameter and thickness for more compact applications.
These movements are a result of Omega's iterative program of continuously improving their entire movement range with each technological step or advancement. As a result, the early teething issues of the Calibre 8500 are now long gone, and these Master Chronometer movements have earned a reputation for accuracy and dependability.
As the Paris 2024 Seamaster Pro has only just been released in mid-2023 and is just starting to appear in Paris boutiques, there are none yet on the secondary market and it will be a long time before any are due for service. When the time does come, they can be handled easily by any Omega certified independent watchmaker at a reasonable price. The fact that these watches use a standard production Omega movement rather than a special version for use with a display-back should make them easy to independently maintain well into the future.
Dial & Variants
Steel & Moonshine Gold Ref 518.104.22.168.04.001
The dial of the Paris 2024 is very unusual compared to most Seamaster Pro models due to the reversed relief of the waves. While regular fourth generation Seamasters have the waves cut into the dial, the waves on this dial sit proud of the white ceramic surface, which has a beautifully glassy smooth finish.
Simple black dial paint is used for all text on the dial as well as the seconds track around the outer edge and the Omega logo, just as is found on normal Seamasters. The Paris2024 font used on the date wheel stands in stark contrast to the regular font used on the dial, drawing attention to this unique feature. Interestingly, having a date wheel has become an increasingly uncommon feature on special edition Seamasters in recent years, but it plays a key role in the Paris 2024.
Dial furniture and hands are made from the same Moonshine gold as the bezel, elegantly contrasting against the pearlescent white of the dial and luminous material. Lastly, the Olympic logo in the second hand is a beautiful and well thought out touch, setting the Paris 2024 apart, but not overpowering it with branding.
At this point, no precious metal or jewelry versions of the Paris 2024 have been released, indicating that this steel and gold model may be the only version to be released. This is no great loss however, as the one model they have released so far is spectacular.
Alongside the new Paris 2024 Seamaster, a range of new NATO straps were offered by Omega in the 5 colors of the Olympic rings. These straps all feature a stylised and truncated version of the PARIS 2024 text in their given color and feature stainless steel hardware.
In addition to the five Olympic colors seen below, Omega has also made a French Tricolor themed NATO strap available, which comes in at a lower price than the Olympic themed straps due to not being a licensed product.
Beyond the French colorway, Omega also has a very wide variety of national flag themed straps available, from Italian, to German, to American, to Chinese, all priced identically to the French option. Even a pride flag option is available at this price point.
The choice of keeping the watch itself effectively monochrome with a neutral gold, silver and white theme makes all of these straps very compatible with the Paris 2024 Seamaster, letting you support your home country at the games in any style you may like.
To acquire a Paris 2024 at the moment could be quite challenging. These watches were only released in July of 2023, and while some stock is appearing now in boutiques in Paris, at this point there does not appear to be a plan to sell them in boutiques internationally.
I do hope that this changes, because when looking at this watch, I see it being a genuinely special piece which will be in high demand. If sales are limited to Paris boutiques only, then there will inevitably be a large number of scalpers buying them locally and selling them at inflated prices internationally. Already there is one on Chrono24 in brand new condition for sale at 40% above MSRP, and this will only continue as long as such a nice watch is out of reach for most of the world.
The MSRP of 8,900 EUR is around 35% above the 6,500 EUR of the standard Seamaster Pro 300M Diver on bracelet which is not unreasonable at all for a two-tone gold and steel model. On this basis I do consider the Paris 2024 to be quite good value at MSRP. Were I in Paris, I would likely try to pick one up for myself as I don't see this being a watch which will lose much value if any over the medium to long term.
As conditions change and more information comes out I will endeavour to update this section, but for now all I can suggest is that if you can get your hands on one of these and it appeals to you, jump on it.
Discussion thread on Omegaforums can be found here: